The 2005 Altos de la Hoya Monastrell “Ungrafted Old Vines” is a perennial Best Buy in this journal. Purple in color, the wine offers up a nearly exotic nose (perhaps due to wild yeast fermentation) of earth, minerals, blueberries, and blackberries. This medium to full-bodied effort possesses layers of sweet, ripe fruit, and soft tannins yet is surprisingly elegant. Drink this tasty wine over the next 2-3 years. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Floral, blackberry and espresso notes are attractive, but chewy tannins dominate this firm red. Drink now through 2009. 25,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Jumilla Select to Add

Big and sun-baked, with large berry aromas and flavors that come up nice but a touch hollow. Ample acidity ensures that the wine doesn’t register as dull, but in the long run there isn’t much substance to it; there’s color, flavor and tannins but no individuality.——M.S.(4/1/2007)—— 85