The famous Brunate vineyard has long represented a kind of Holy Grail for this producer, and with the 1999 Barolo Brunate one can see why. The darkest and deepest in color of the three Barolo offerings, it is easily the most complex on the nose as well, with abundant notes of herbs, tobacco, leather, and licorice. The palate offers an avalanche of lusciously ripe black cherry fruit, explosive in its force but shapely and voluptuous in its tactile sensations, quintessentially Nebbiolo in its presentation of roses, mocha, and melted tar. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411