This red from Bodegas Fontana is a good value. The 2004 Fontal Roble is 100% Tempranillo aged 6 months in American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it offers attractive spice and red and black fruit aromas with no obvious oak influence. Medium to full-bodied, the wine has plenty of forward, ripe fruit and good length. Drink this tasty value over the next two years. Importer: Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Ripe fruit forms a good aromatic foundation, and there are also simple spice notes offering added character. The palate is sort of stark, with tangy cherry and raspberry flavors, and since there’s no shortage of acidity the wine has a spiky feel in its center.——M.S.(6/1/2008)—— 84