Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The latest edition of one of Germany’s most consistently fine dry wine values, Ratzenbergers’ 2008 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett trocken is infectiously juicy and bright, dominated by salted fresh lime, with suggestions of toasted pumpkin seed in its finish. As usual, it strikes an ideal balance between a sense of stuffing (despite only 11% alcohol) with a waxy texture, and refreshing levity. A faintly sweaty, animal dimension adds interest, in my view, to the wine’s winsomeness, although not all tasters may feel that way. This impeccably-balanced Riesling will be highly adaptable at table over at least the next half dozen years. When you taste a collection like this year’s from the two Jochen Ratzenbergers, you have to wonder why their wines’ consistent quality; track record for aging; and frequently stellar performances do not make this one of the most talked-about estates in Germany. (Maybe I shouldn’t wish that on us!) In fact, they are quite well-respected at home, but I think there is a certain snobbishness that rebounds against even the best Mittelrhein Riesling because this region’s precious half-timbered villages and crenellated slopes spell “tourist country” to most German wine lovers.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644