Weingut Toni Jost Hahnenhof Devon S Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Apple, yellow plum, and grapefruit scent and juicily saturate the substantial, satiny palate in Jost’s 2010 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S, which, surprisingly, lacks the sense of mineral dimension one would expect, but satisfies in a simple, tartly-fruited, refreshing way, and should continue to for several years (perhaps picking up more interest in the process). Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463

The Jost 2009 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S brims with luscious pineapple and grapefruit, and while glossier in texture and (at 12% alcohol) marginally fuller than their generic dry Riesling, it is also juicier; offers a fine sense of lingering finishing interplay with salt and stones; and preserves a lovely sense of levity. This lip-smacker ought to prove deliciously versatile over at least the next 4-5 years. (I somehow neglected until it was too late to note the absence of the corresponding Bacharacher Kabinett trocken from the Jost 2009s I tasted.) For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463

Originating in the Steeger St.-Jost (although Josts sometimes source this bottling from other sites) the 2008 Riesling Spatlese trocken Devon S displays even to the nose the wet Devonian slate for which it is named. Hints of smokiness, green tea, lime peel, and peach kernel also pique the olfactors, and follow on a firm but polished, and juicy, rather than too-austere, palate. This finishes with a welcome sense of lift as well as refreshment. I’d plan to enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. Young Cecilia Jost is taking charge of the cellar here. In 2008, though, she was tied up with a commitment to harvest in Austria, so Peter and Linde Jost were still calling the shots. Given the ripening tendencies of the Jost’s great, steep, near-monopole Hahn (which is the reason Josts have now planted a site high above it to try to get back to real Kabinett) as well as the lees contact that Peter Jost favors, the 2008 vintage offered a possible antidote to high alcohol, lack of transparency or massiveness that are occasionally exhibited at this address, while permitting a later harvest than Josts have “enjoyed” (assuming you consider that the right word) in some years, lasting until November 10.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

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