Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Given the short crop, no generic Q.b.A. bottlings were attempted, but the 2006 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett trocken exhibits an impressive broth-like suffusion of stony and savory mineral matter and tart plum skin and sizzling citrus zest lend chew to the finish, without engendering bitterness. This will prove useful over the next couple of years, even though it is not so memorable as some recent renditions of this wine that clearly performed well above their stature.Without spraying against botrytis, Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. insists that the proper management of the family’s vines and greening between the rows kept rot at bay, but 30% less than a normal volume was harvested. The Ratzenbergers began picking on Septermber 25 and were done on the 12th of October.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644