Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The 2004 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett trocken’s pumpkin, toasted almond and pumpkin seed aromas; waxy texture, piquant nuttiness, and wet stone manifestation of slate are all satisfying. As so often in their dry wines, and particularly in their low-end generic bottlings, the Ratzenbergers have managed to strike a lovely balance of acids, fruit and phenolics, offering a wine that combines stuffing and delicacy. The brothy, savory, slate-paved finish is a piece of the balance and gustatory satisfaction that characterize the wine. This might not be at the quality level of its remarkably successful 2001 and 2002 predecessors, but if you can’t locate either of those two wines (which are performing very well today), this 2004 will certainly do. Curiously, it represents the October 10 pre-harvest of the Posten vineyard in preparation for the later picking of a Spatlese trocken which I found less convincing than this generic Kabinett. The Jochen Ratzenbergers – father and son – seldom fear letting the acidity of their Rieslings hang out, and they also craft wines that often need a couple of year’s bottle age to blossom, so my verdict on their 2004s may well require upgrading. Acid levels in the grapes stayed high, but Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. reports that the estate has never experienced such unprovoked precipitation of tartrates as this year, which significantly diminished the finished acids.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ tel 856-608-9644