Served blind and from magnum, I was gratified to be able to identify both the vintage and producer of Ramonet's 2014 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Offering up aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, iodine, warm bread and crushed mint, the wine is full-bodied and expansively textural but incisive, with terrific concentration and cut, concluding with a long finish. While I'm more than happy to drink it from my friends' cellars, my own bottles won't be opened for the better part of a decade, and I would counsel readers to approach any other vintage of the decade before they start attacking their 2014s.