The 2020 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing nicely, unwinding in the glass to reveal aromas of white peach, honeycomb, toasted bread and confit citrus. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's rich and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, saline finish.

Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, green apples, toasted bread and white flowers, framed by a subtle touch of reduction, Pernot's 2019 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with a rich, fleshy profile, underpinned by lively acids. It's already very expressive.

Charming and expressive, the 2017 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru bursts with aromas of ripe apples, white flowers, vanilla pod and crisp peach. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, pure and elegant with an ample core, understated depth and juicy balancing acids. More elegant and less textural than the Batard, this is an open, giving Bienvenues which will give pleasure with only a modicum of bottle age.

One of the more extroverted wines in the lineup, the 2011 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet boasts considerable depth and harmony. Citrus, white flowers, floral-infused honey and chamomile take shape in the glass. This is a decidedly understated, feminine style of Bienvenues, and it works nicely. Saline notes underpin the creamy, inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Pernot bottled all of the 2011s in late June, the earliest I know of in Burgundy, especially for the higher-end appellations. Because of the early harvest, the fermentations were done quickly. The wines were racked into tank in March for fining, where they stayed until they were bottled. This is a very pretty set of 2011s that offers considerable early appeal. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191