Aromas of pastry cream, fresh pears, Meyer lemon and white flowers introduce Ramonet's 2017 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and textural wine that's concentrated but incisive, with good structural tension and a long, chalky finish. Representing something of a hypothetical blend of the domaine's 2015 and 2014 vintages in this climat, it's well worth seeking out.