Fusel and crushed stone notes, musky narcissus perfume, and fresh, zesty lime and orange rind mingle in the nose of Bott-Geyl’s 2010 Riesling Schoenenbourg, then complexly and piquantly inform a subtly oily palate. There is a honeyed aura to this performance, too, even though what little residual sugar is present serves to support the citrus flavors without engendering any overt sweetness. There are admirable clarity and primary juiciness to this wine’s impressively persistent finish, featuring a different but equally welcome fruit-stone interplay from that found in the corresponding Schlossberg. Bott reports that there was only a blush of botrytis on this fruit, and any effects are discreetly woven in. I would expect this to be worth following through at least 2025.
Jean-Christophe Bott harvested most of the way through October of 2010, not picking Schoenenbourg and Mandelberg Rieslings until near the end of that month, and with excellent results. Quite a bit of grand cru Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer (including all of his Furstentum) was declassified into generics. By contrast, Bott’s Rieslings were picked by the first days of October in 2011. Interestingly, with two exceptions, they finished dry-tasting (and the non-crus analytically dry) without Bott having had to encourage their spontaneous fermentation through warming or yeasting. Incidentally, the Bott-Geyl acreage and portfolio will be expanding with fruit from very old vines in Sporen as well as an additional parcel in Furstentum, due to come on line from vintages 2012 and 2013 respectively.
Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559-1040 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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