The Bott-Geyl 2006 Riesling Schoenenbourg smells of over-ripe Bosc pear, apricot, musk, and fusil oils; comes to the palate slightly sweet, with accents of fruit pit bitterness; and finishes with subtle honeyed tone, salinity, and enough acidity that 20 grams of sugar just registers as sweetness. Unfortunately, where one would like to have sap and juiciness, there is a slightly drying spot in the finish, but this still represents an interesting take on its site, provided one drinks it in the next couple of years.
The ambitious Jean-Christophe Bott declassified ruthlessly in 2006, reducing by around half what is usually a very long litany of bottlings. Pinot Gris had the hardest time, he indicated; and 2007 was not easy for that variety here, either, because Bott’s holdings in the Furstentum – which had been his quality exception among Pinot Gris in 2006 – were among several of his vineyards hailed-on and declassified. For 2007 Bott did not even begin picking until the third week of October, generally managing to capture well-balanced ripeness, with wines often better-able to handle their residual sugar than I had experienced here in the 2004-2006 vintages.
Various importers, including: Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Polaner Selections, Mount Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244 0404
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