The Bott-Geyl 2007 Riesling Schoenenbourg is scented with fresh lime, lily-of-the-valley, white peach, sage, and a hint of fusil oils. Palpably dense but satin-textured, it offers equal parts salt and chalk to mingle with the peach and bittersweet herbs in a gripping if slightly austere finish. Typical for its site, this will need some years to really express its full personality, but should be worth following for a decade or more.
The ambitious Jean-Christophe Bott declassified ruthlessly in 2006, reducing by around half what is usually a very long litany of bottlings. Pinot Gris had the hardest time, he indicated; and 2007 was not easy for that variety here, either, because Bott’s holdings in the Furstentum – which had been his quality exception among Pinot Gris in 2006 – were among several of his vineyards hailed-on and declassified. For 2007 Bott did not even begin picking until the third week of October, generally managing to capture well-balanced ripeness, with wines often better-able to handle their residual sugar than I had experienced here in the 2004-2006 vintages.
Various importers, including: Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Polaner Selections, Mount Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244 0404
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