Among the many disappointing 1983 St.-Estephes, Meyney is an unqualified success. Fully mature, it is made in a big, thick, fleshy style with a rustic nose of grilled meat, licorice, herbs, and blackcurrants. Full-bodied, soft, and concentrated (a rarity for a 1983 St.-Estephe), it will keep for at least 10 more years. Last tasted, 2/93.