The 2008 Pinot Noir McCrone Vineyard comes from a densely spaced site planted in 1992. It offers up fragrant black fruit aromas verging into blueberry and plum. Mouth-coating on the palate with plenty of structure and intense flavors, it has outstanding volume, focus, and length. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it through 2023. Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs in 2008 are exceptional but only slightly better than his 2007s from a much more difficult vintage. Perhaps it is in the more challenging vintages that the cream really rises to the top, whereas the challenge in 2008 was to NOT make a really good wine. Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com

Still quite young, but showing real depth and layering, the McCrone vineyard designate offers pomegranate and raspberry fruit, dusted with baking spices, and finished with a tasty vein of mocha. This is a wine to enjoy in the full bloom of its youth. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 92