The 2006 Ribolla Gialla is a fat, full-bodied wine loaded with dried apricots, peaches, flowers, minerals and wild herbs. The wine blossoms in an expansive, generous style, covering every corner of the palate with waves of flavor. The finish is long, pure and exceptionally polished. A recent bottle of the 1999 – the first vintage macerated on the skins – was absolutely divine when last tasted a few months ago. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Damijan Podversic is one of Friuli’s most promising and hardworking young growers. Though deeply inspired by his friend and mentor Josko Gravner, Damijan has developed his own voice. The whites are macerated on the skins, but they also show a more delicate hand than is sometimes the case with wines made in this style. My visit to Damijan’s tiny cellar a few months ago was fascinating, as I tasted through every wine in barrel, including a few experimental wines: a Pinot Grigio macerated on the skins, and a Malvasia, both of which are highly promising. The 2006 whites are off the charts and reflect an enlightened, refined approach that is incredibly appealing. As always, whites that are macerated on the skins should be served at cellar temperature or slightly warmer (never chilled) in red wine glasses. I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
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