What a joy it is to taste Damijan’s 2004 Ribolla Gialla, which is easily one of the most important wines to come out of Friuli this year. It reveals expressive, soaring aromatics along with a core of intense fruit framed by powerful, muscular tannins. This deep, earthy wine has the precision of a finely-cut diamond, not to mention a finish that lasts forever. It will require at least two years in the bottle for the tannins to soften. Bravo, Damijan. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Blood, sweat and tears. That is the phrase that comes to mind when I think of Damijan Podversic. Damijan (who goes by his first name) is a young, humble producer endowed with an outsize passion for his land as well as an unparalleled work ethic. He has overcome family struggles and a host of other significant odds to piece together what are now ten splendidly positioned hectares, mostly in the Monte Calvario sub-zone of the Collio. In doing so he has single handedly brought renewed attention to this site which had once been under vine but fallen into neglect in more recent times because of the difficulties in farming the steep terrain. Despite having achieved significant critical success with his 1999s and 2000s Damijan was convinced he could make even better wines. With great personal conviction and the encouragement of his mentor Josko Gravner, in 2001 Damijan changed course and began to produce whites macerated on the skins gradually increasing the length of maceration time with each successive vintage. Damijan's philosophy centers on hillside vineyards, dense crop planting, natural farming and low yields to produce the best fruit possible. The cellar consists of a small rented space outfitted with just the bare essentials. The approach is decidedly non-interventionalist. The 2004s were fermented in conical oak vats without temperature control or selected yeasts. Macerations lasted up to 60 days. The wines were aged in Slavonian oak casks for 23 months and were bottled without fining or filtration. Readers should note that the color of the whites can be cloudy when compared to more conventionally made wines. This lack of clarity should not be taken as a defect, in this case it is the sign of wines that are pure, unmanipulated expressions of fruit. Like all whites macerated on the skins, these wines should be served at cellar temperature in large glasses. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898
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