The 2004 Syrah’s dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of blackberries and cassis, lively, fresh acidity, medium body, and a stylish personality. Consume it over the next 4-5 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+). Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

Tannins play the lead role here, dry, dusty, lockdown. There’s plenty of blackberry and spicy plum fruit, but it’s buried. What’s a consumer to do? Aging is a gamble. How many California Syrahs survive the years? Yet that’s your only option, unless you enjoy that astringent, tongue-numbing feeling. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 86