Winemaker Bob Foley prefers older barrels for his Syrah, which lets the massive mountain fruit shine through. The result has a savory, meaty quality to the blackberry fruit, and picks up complex notes of coffee and pepper as well. A bit firm on the finish for current consumption; this is one of the rare California Syrahs that needs 2–3 years of cellaring. ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 91