Close in quality is the deep ruby-hued 2007 Far Coast Vineyard (a site near the Pacific Ocean). Notes of fruitcake, spicy cherries, pomegranates, and incense along with excellent depth, purity, and richness are found in this top-class Chambolle-Musigny look-alike. It should drink well for 7-10 years. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

From the winery’s Annapolis Vineyard, at the cool, northern tip of the “true” Sonoma Coast, comes this chunky young Pinot Noir. Although the grapes were destemmed before fermentation, the tannins are significant, a reflection of the low yields and tough skins the berries develop. In fact, the wine is almost Zinny in its full body and spicy, briary fruit. It clearly needs time. Best after 2011.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 93