The Coche-Dury 2006 Meursault from the Vireuils Dessus is pungently herbal and zesty on the nose; quite structured, stony, saline, meaty and gripping; and most suggests the high ripeness of its vintage in its creaminess of texture and expansiveness on the palate. This may always lack the charm of the Narvaux, but should offer an increasingly fascinating look over the next 5-7 years into the animal and mineral recesses of its appellation.
Jean-Francois Coche’s 2006s did not even begin their malo-lactic transformation until high summer, and several were not finished when I last tasted there in November, 2007. Coche does not think 2006 quite measures up to 2002 or 2005, and given the amazing wines he rendered in the latter vintage, one can appreciate his perspective. Nonetheless, few if any other 2006s I tasted were able to combine complexity and charm, vintage-typical ripeness and verve in the way these did.
Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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