” While I found Minges’ Riesling trocken liter bottling strangely disjointed this year and his spine-tingling dry Kabinett from vines of an old Mosel selection grown on chalk in the Flemlinger Zechpeter severely bright in its efficacious acidity, with a 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken his dry Rieslings at least began to settle into an acid-etched groove. Lemon, grapefruit, and green herbs offer a pungently aromatic display and brightly juicy palate presence with pip and rind bitterness and hints of chalk infusion adding counterpoint to a sassy and satisfyingly sappy finish. I would plan on serving this over the next 2-3 years. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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