Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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While a dry Kabinett from the Zechpeter was rather austere, Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken offers bright, juicy refreshment, with scents and flavors of lemon and winter squash accompanied by cool, minty high-tones and oceanic alkalinity and salinity. The sense of sap and energy is persistent and infectious. To achieve this sort of satisfaction in a legally trocken Pfalz Riesling along with the lightness of a mere 11% alcohol is admirable, and the result should retain its virtues for several years. I realize I’m mounting my soapbox here and possibly trying your patience, since the following two sentences have been lifted verbatim from my review of the delicious 2007 rendition. If 90+% of Riesling production is going to be legally trocken – which seems to be the norm, by volume, at most Pfalz estates – then why don’t more of them offer a genuine range of style and weight, including a wine like this? Well-concentrated, dynamic dry whites of less than 12% alcohol are not, after all, very numerous nowadays outside of Muscadet, the Savoie, or Danubian Austria. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300