Minges’ 2007 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett trocken is amply endowed with fresh peach and apple; subtly silken in texture; full of lift and vivacity; and displays what I can only call transparency and “crystalline” minerality in a finish of delicate persistence. This should remain delightfully versatile for at least 6-8 years. If 90+% of Riesling production is going to be legally trocken – which seems to be the norm, by production volume, at most Pfalz estates – then why don’t more of them offer a genuine range of style and weight, including a wine like this? Well-concentrated, dynamic, dry non-Riesling whites of less than 12% alcohol are not, after all, very numerous nowadays outside of Muscadet, the Savoie, or Danubian Austria. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300