The 2001 Riesling Kabinett Trocken Gleisweiler Holle is a top-flight value. its lovely aromatic profile offers scents of smoky stones, flowers, perfume, and honeysuckle. This penetrating, rich wine has impressive depth, a soft, fruit-packed personality, and loads of quinine, minerals, pear, and toasted apple flavors. "It reminds me of what a great Blanc de Blancs Champagne tastes like when it has gone flat," said Terry Theise, the estate's importer. Projected maturity: Now-2008. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300