Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin Les Varennes, Loire, France

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The Cady 2005 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes offers a nose of bread, brown spices, mint, white raisin, honey, and quince. A rich, creamy palate of spice-infused quince and apple jelly leads to a finish with good grip and well-balanced sweetness. Cady’s can be an excellent address at which to study terroir. In drought years, the sponge-like soil of Chaumes is generally superior and in wet ones the schiste of St. Aubin. But in neither 2004 nor 2005 did I find his Chaume as pure or persuasive as his St.-Aubin.Philippe Cady is an excellent source for Coteaux du Layon values vinified entirely in tank, and generally available in a range of vintages – indeed, some of his outstanding 2002s can still be found in both the French and U.S. markets.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29