Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin Les Varennes, Loire, France

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There was already ample botrytis in early October when Cady began picking his 2004 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes and pungent brown spice, faintly fungal emanations, as well as a nip of horseradish in the nose and on the palate call attention to this fact. Quince and apple jelly, lemon and herb candy mingle in a still juicy matrix. Polish and subtle creaminess help alleviate the sharper notes of botrytis. This finishes with a somewhat candied but satisfying length. Philippe Cady is an excellent source for Coteaux du Layon values vinified entirely in tank, and generally available in a range of vintages – indeed, some of his outstanding 2002s can still be found in both the French and U.S. markets.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29