Candied melon and honey dominate the nose and palate of the 2005 Coteaux du Layon Cuvee Le Paon. A formidably-concentrated, admirably pure, and not at all heavy wine, its sheer sweetness nevertheless overwhelms any sense of elegance and probably blocks access to more diverse flavors that would emerge if one chose to give this 5-7 years in the cellar. But I fear that excellent though it is, this wine has too much competition from within its own ranks alone. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

Representing a selection from their oldest vines that is not essayed every year, the Baumard 2004 Coteaux du Layon Cuvee Le Paon displays gorgeous scents and flavors of lime, anise, pineapple, quince, and orange liqueur. Lush and sweet yet juicy and pronouncedly fresh-fruited on the palate, it finishes quite hauntingly, with distinct wet stone and a hint of caramel adding further complexity. This should age nicely for at least a decade. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

A full-bodied wine, very sweet from botrytised grapes selected from old vines. It fills the mouth while keeping its elegance. Preserving the balance is fresh nectarine acidity. Immensely attractive now, this is likely to age well.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 91