Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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Apple blossom and hedge flowers as well as suggestions of wet stone scent Jamek’s 2010 Riesling Federspiel Klaus in a way that would have left me suspecting, if tasted blind, that it had came from neighboring Achleiten. Tart apple skin and bitter apple pit make for an invigorating but rather raw impression on a firm palate, with stony minerality outlasting the finishing fruit. I would drink this over the next couple of years. Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601