Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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Jamek’s 2007 Riesling Federspiel Klaus – another instance where last year’s picking overshot the Federspiel mark in finished alcohol – may fit the category parameters, but is still an oily-textured, palpably dense wine dominated by smoky, pungent, faintly bitter citrus oil, peach kernel, and toasted nuts – as such more Smaragd in personality. A clinging but slightly severe finish incorporates site-typically stony suggestions. This should be interesting to follow for at least 4-5 years, although there is the residual worry that botrytis manifestations might begin to dominate. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

There's good cut and definition to the mineral and ripe peach flavors, which linger on the finish with plenty of rich, spicy notes. Drink now through 2016. 1,047 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add