Jamek’s 2007 Riesling Federspiel Klaus – another instance where last year’s picking overshot the Federspiel mark in finished alcohol – may fit the category parameters, but is still an oily-textured, palpably dense wine dominated by smoky, pungent, faintly bitter citrus oil, peach kernel, and toasted nuts – as such more Smaragd in personality. A clinging but slightly severe finish incorporates site-typically stony suggestions. This should be interesting to follow for at least 4-5 years, although there is the residual worry that botrytis manifestations might begin to dominate. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300