Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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With the 2005 Riesling Federspiel Klaus we gain significant dimensions of richness, decidedly exotic botrytis-born notes, and yet a certain airy openness and dynamic exchange of fruit and mineral flavors. The finish here – as in this year’s Gruner Veltliner Smaragd from the Achleiten – combines the spicy pungency of botrytis with salt and ore-like minerality of the site. There is an amazing amount of clarity and precision, along with bright acidity and ample refreshment value. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Marienfeld (not available; 86), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rain (not available; 84), 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten (not available; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300