Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The 2004 Riesling Federspiel Klaus smells bitter-sweetly of pear and pear pips along with a heady, exotic florality. Luscious fruit and a silky feel more than compensate for any lack of weight here on the mid-palate; in fact, for the wine to remain light on its feel while full of flavor and textural allure is precisely the point, making this textbook Federspiel. The finish is sweetly rich, yet by analysis dry, not to mention bracingly salty. Pear nectar, pear pips, toasted grain, peach kernel, diverse flowers and mineral essences, and a hint of smoke all hold your attention until you succumb to the next sip. If anybody asks “Why make Federspiel from a great site?” or – heaven help them – “Why is it so expensive, it’s just Federspiel?”, then I fear they have missed the point. And when the roll is called and corks pulled in six or eight years, I fully expect this to have gained just as much and lost just as little in the bottle as the corresponding Smaragd. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300