The 2008 Pinot Grigio is made in a relatively lush, fruit-driven style that emphasizes the wine’s ripe yellow peach and apricot fruit over the more typical expression of minerality that is the norm in these parts. Still, this is a pretty, soft wine to enjoy over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Abbazia di Novacella is a reliable source for fairly-priced wines from Alto Adige that express plenty of varietal and regional character. These entry-level wines are all aged in stainless steel.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Here’s a beautifully aromatic Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige with delicate notes of white spring flowers, citrus and crushed stone. The wine is firm and creamy in the mouth with a pretty vein of minerality and acidity on the close.——M.L.(5/1/2010)—— 88