The 2009 Pinot Grigio is gorgeous in this vintage. Ripe juicy peaches and flowers caress the palate with a bit more body and density than is typically the case. The long, inviting finish begs for a second taste. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. These entry-level, unoaked whites from Abbazia di Novacella in the Valle Isarco deliver plenty of bang for the buck.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

This is a successful expression of Pinot Grigio thanks to the wine’s easy but studied sophistication and its creamy mouthfeel. Food-friendly and upfront, it would make a good match to seafood or white meat.——M.L.(11/1/2010)—— 88