The 2009 La Ricolma is gorgeous. Blackberries, graphite, smoke and violets are some of the nuances that emerge from the glass. San Giusto’s Ricolma is differentiated from most of other Tuscan Merlots for its firm sense of structure and generous tannin, both of which place it closer to Sangiovese than Merlot stylistically. There are more famous (and more expensive!) Merlots being made in Tuscany, but few that consistently reach this level of excellence. Firm tannins suggest the 2009 should be cellared for a handful of years. It is a stellar wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2027. San Giusto a Rentennano is one of Italy’s leading estates. Brothers Luca and Francesco Martini di Cigala are quiet and unassuming. They prefer to let the wines speak for themselves, which they do with great eloquence. Readers might want to check out my complete vertical of San Giusto’s flagship Percarlo, also in Issue 201. From top to bottom, these remain some of the most reasonably priced wines in the world considering the pure quality of what goes into the bottle. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887