A mammothly constituted offering is the black/purple-colored 1997 La Ricolma (100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled with virtually no clarification). It is unctuously-textured, phenomenally-concentrated, and extraordinarily intense, with surreal levels of extract, glycerin, and richness. Its olfactory bombardment begins with scents of melted chocolate, roasted espresso, and oodles of black cherry and blackberry fruit. It is thick and phenomenally rich. However, despite its monstrous size, weight, and constitution, this wine is well-delineated, and remarkably refreshing to drink, although knocking off a bottle between two people might prove challenging. This sensational effort is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411