This estate-bottled Cabernet's dark fruit tries to project but is dominated, as in too many South African reds, by untamed notes of earth, animal and iodine. Whether from soil, vines, or winemaking practices, these elements lack appeal and render the wine out-of-balance when present to this extent. Closes long and very dry, with a bitter note. ——M.M.(3/1/2004)—— 81