The 1990 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières from Coche-Dury showed exactly as I expected. After 27 years, it clearly expresses more of the growing season than the terroir. The nose is quite rich and honeyed, with touches of lanolin and a touch of brioche, indicating, perhaps, a little botrytis in the vineyard. The palate is complementary, with a honeyed texture, good depth and honeycomb and light walnut notes. What's missing? The answer: Les Perrières. There is very little mineralité here and scant signs indicating from exactly where it comes. It is pleasurable, no question of that, but it does not possess the profundity of the greatest examples from this iconic grower. Tasted May 2017.
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