Although it carries but a single star, the 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese* is very obviously and impressively a “l(fā)ittle B.A.”in character, smelling of smoke, dried apples, and citrus oil. The rich, oily palate too is marked by smoky notes as well as the honey, dried apples, and ginger. Botrytis seems to slightly trip this up in its finish, which displays honeyed richness and spice but loses a bit of the sap and juiciness and certainly the clarity that characterized the many better Auslesen in this tasting. I would assess it again in a year before making any long-term commitment to this. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Very fragrant, offering floral, lemon custard and mineral aromas and flavors, backed by a lively structure and a creamy texture. This should come together in a few years, creating a harmonious, seductive whole. Best from 2009 through 2025. 37 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add