The 2008 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) is beautifully expressive, even at this early stage. It is also one of only two 2008s here (the other is Capalot) that was aged entirely in French oak barrique. Freshly cut flowers, dark red berries and mint are some of the many nuances that flesh out in this complex, multi-dimensional wine. This is a stunning effort. Wow. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.
These wines from Roberto and Davide Voerzio represent a significant turning point stylistically. This is the first year in which most of the Baroli were aged partly in cask and partly in barrel, the same approach the estate used for its early wines, up to and including the 1993 vintage. The 2008s spent their first year in equal parts cask and barrique, and a second year in French oak barrels, just 20% new, a major change over the recent past. The exceptions are the Baroli Voerzio bottled only in magnums (Sarmassa and Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate), which were aged exclusively in French oak because of the tiny quantities of those wines. Roberto Voerzio describes 2008 as a year that was cold from start to finish. The wines are huge, tannic and likely to require quite a bit of patience. With time, though, the pedigree of the great Barolo vineyards simply can’t be denied. The best of Voerzio’s 2008s are pure magic.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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