2006 Matassa Blanc is scented with green tea, lime, white peach, and ocean breeze. This vintage benefitted from Lubbe's decision that this cuvee could in general use more time on its lees, and it was only bottled after 14 months in (largely older) barrels. The result - when compared with the 2005 - is a smoother texture and an enhancement of the resemblance to Chablis in the form of shrimp shell reduction, subtle salinity, and crushed stone character, and it finishes with ravishing yet subtle persistence rather than the obviously gripping intensity of its 2005 counterpart. I would want to follow this for at least another 3-4 years. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.
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