The 2005 Matassa Blanc displays a combination of carnal, meat stock-like and crushed stone, dusty notes in the nose reminiscent of Chablis. On the palate, the red wine-like side of Grenache Gris emerges, with an almost tannic texture and forceful grip. This wine's tactile bite and piquancy of pepper and citrus zest reminds me of Gruner Veltliner, a similarity which I found in the 2007 as well, and on which, it turns out, both Lubbe and Austrian vintner Roland Velich have commented. Saline and alkaline elements emerge in the finish too, in fact, another similarity to many of the best Austrian wines is that this wine's tail wags the dog. There is a certain rough-hewn, angular aspect to this cuvee, one which is clearly worth following for at least another couple of years. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.