The greatest Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert since the magnificent 1990 is the 2009. Jaboulet has nearly 100 acres in this appellation, and the 2009, which is bursting with potential, represents a great buy for Syrah lovers. Its dense purple color is followed by an explosive bouquet of blackberries, sweet cherries, licorice, Provencal olives, graphite and subtle smoke. Full-bodied with silky tannins as well as a terrific mouthfeel and palate penetration, this gorgeous offering should drink well for 15 or more years. One needs no further evidence of the extraordinary turn around in the quality of the Jaboulet wines than what proprietress Caroline Frey has accomplished in 2009 as well as 2010. As I indicated last year, this is one of the great qualitative turn arounds in the wine world. It is welcomed by all wine lovers given the historic legacy of the wines of Jaboulet and the importance of this famous firm in all of France. Ms. Frey, who is also responsible for the brilliant wines produced at La Lagune in Bordeaux, has reduced the amount of new oak for the red wines to about 20% and to negligible proportions for the whites. A second wine of Hermitage, La Petite Chapelle, is fashioned from 33% or more of the production that is culled out to guarantee that the great reputation of the Hermitage La Chapelle has enjoyed over the last century is maintained. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Ripe and fleshy, with a velvety feel that allows plum sauce, mocha, cocoa powder and crushed blackberry fruit flavors to all meld and glide along. Dense, but supple through the finish and approachable now. Drink now through 2017. 600 cases imported.