Jacques Jaboulet believes that 1996 was a better year for this firm than 1995. A far more interesting comparison is between the 1995 and 1996 Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert. I would not be surprised to see the 1996 ultimately turn out to be slightly superior, although it is a difficult call at this stage. The 1995 Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert, made from small yields, is extremely closed. It exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, followed by dense, sweet, herb-tinged, cassis aromas, ripe, concentrated flavors, plenty of tannin, and excellent to outstanding density and richness. The wine clearly merits an upper-eighties point score, but it needs 2-3 years of cellaring. It will age well for 10-15 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Closed up slightly today, yet there's plenty of sweet blackberry and plum character along with hints of vanilla, all cloaked in a shroud of ripe, mouthcoating tannins. A modern expression of Syrah that will develop well. Best from 2000 through 2008.