The brilliant 2003 Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert (production was one-third of normal) boasts a deep purple hue as well as gorgeous aromas of tapenade, blackberries, cherries, incense, and licorice. Voluptuous and full-bodied, with low acidity, ripe tannin, and gobs of fruit and glycerin, it should be consumed over the next 10-15 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Pure and driven, with a racy core of black currant and boysenberry fruit atop a vivid, minerally underpinning. Lengthy, with fruit, garrigue and iron notes running through the finish. Drink now through 2015. 7,800 cases made.

A fine example of Jaboulet’s Thalabert, the 2003 features plenty of ripeness without becoming jammy or overdone. It’s round and mouthfilling, with supple tannins and a creamy texture, while the flavors are herbal and peppery but also meaty and dark, featuring notes of black olive and espresso. Drink now–2015.