Chateau Soucherie (P Y Tijou) Coteaux du Layon

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The basic Soucherie 2009 Coteaux du Layon was still fermenting when I visited in late June so unready to be assessed, but the 2008 Coteaux du Layon – assembled from two tries and aged entirely in tank – proved fascinating and promising. High-toned aromas of white truffle, lemon candy, kirsch, and maraschino lead to a tight, bright, vigorous palate impression for a nobly sweet wine, yet at the same time an oily, glycerin-rich texture. This brightly penetrating, almost brash, and unusually bright nobly sweet Chenin should be fascinating to follow for at least a decade but will also prove to have interesting uses at table in its youth. In 2007, the Tijou family sold Chateau Soucherie to industrial magnate Roger Beguinot, whose chosen wine maker, Thibaud Boudignon, is a Burgundian who arrived here via the Languedoc, Bordeaux, and Australia. The vines are now being farmed entirely organically, and have been impressively manicured. The wines I tasted at this spectacularly and from the inside almost unrecognizably renovated property (which I last visited in 2006) seem to be way stations on a journey of stylistic exploration, from wines essentially vinified under the regimen of Pierre-Yves Tijou and his sons, through the transitional vintage 2007, and including two years in which Beguinot and his colleagues took very different approaches in elevage to what were already strikingly different sets of raw material, namely of 2008 and 2009.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990