Pierre-Yves Tijou and his sons offer a wide array of wines – and from numerous vintages simultaneously – including many user-friendly and well-priced examples of both dry and sweet Chenin. The Tijous’ 2004 Coteaux du Layon – from schistic soil – makes an ideal introduction to its genre, proves how a ravishing botrytis wine can still exhibit delicacy and sheer lip-smacking drinkability, and demonstrates that many of the best Loire elixirs are ludicrously under-priced! A perfume of quince and pear preserves, lily and gardenia, honey, and white chocolate is followed onto the palate by a ravishing amalgam of quince and honey accented with flowers, pear skin, peppermint and citrus zest. A perfect, pure expression of honeyed botrytis is here allied to utmost clarity, lift and lightness, as the finish positively floats. Yes, this is a “l(fā)ittle” botrytis wine, if by that one means not-too-thickly rich or far-gone on rot, and displaying only subtle sweetness. Those who experiment with this wine in the kitchen and at table will be surprised. (The surprisingly light but by no means unattractive 2005 version struck me as in need of time to properly assess.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990