D’Arenberg’s upper-level wines begin with the 2008 The Feral Fox Pinot Noir which spent 12 months in 25% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals a nicely perfumed nose of toasty red fruits followed by a sweetly-fruited, ripe, Cote de Beaune-like wine. It has excellent varietal character and a bit of structure ensuring that it can be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years. The d’Arenberg portfolio is loaded with values. The winery works with over 140 growers to fashion their superb blends. For the 2008 vintage, the entry-level The Stump Jump series has been expanded.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

This taut, tangy Pinot Noir displays plenty of intensity but lacks any sense of elegance. Maraschino cherries lead the way, ending up a bit rough and warm on the finish.——J.C.(9/1/2010)—— 84