The medium ruby-colored 2007 The Feral Fox Pinot Noir is sourced from the cool climate Adelaide Hills. The grapes were crushed by foot and remained on their lees in barrel until bottling without fining or filtration. It reveals an attractive bouquet of smoke, cherry, and raspberry leading to a silky-textured wine with a trace of underlying tannin. It should evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2017. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on the Rhone varieties, is wide ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom. The winery produces a bevy of value priced reds and whites that were reviewed in Issue 178. They should not be overlooked. At the higher end of the portfolio there is one white wine on which to report. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.darenberg.com.au

The Adelaide Hills are an up-and-coming cool-climate region of South Australia, and home to some of the country’s best Chardonnays. This Pinot doesn’t show quite the same class, but it’s a solid effort, with a properly silky texture, even if the aromas and flavors hint of dried fruit and finish on a crisp, tea-like note.——J.C.(8/1/2009)—— 86