The 2017 Meursault Les Rougeots is as usual more muscular and textural than the Chevalières. Exhibiting scents of pear, crisp white peach, hazelnuts and flowers, framed by a delicate touch of oak vanillin, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep and multidimensional core, excellent concentration and a bright spine of acidity. This is always a very age-worthy cuvée, and the 2017 will merit at least a decade to unwind in the cellar—even if it's deceptively approachable out of the gates.